How To Paint a Dresser (Black)

So, let’s say you’re like me and you’ve got a small dresser that’s just plain ugly, but has serious potential, and you’re thinking a fresh coat of paint might just be the magic it needs? Well my friend, I’m going to let you in on my biggest secret—you’re absolutely right and I’m going to show you how to paint a dresser.

Painting furniture is one of the easiest ways to give it a brand-new look without breaking the bank—or your back (heh). But if you’ve never painted furniture before, don’t worry—I’ve got you. It’s not nearly as hard as it may seem.

I’m going to walk you through every step, from prepping, to painting, to sealing, with all the little details to make sure you get a professional-looking finish that you’ll be proud of, and more importantly, WANT to keep around.

But First, Why Paint a Dresser?

Before we go any further, let’s talk about why painting a dresser is a great idea. Maybe you found a bargain piece on Facebook Marketplace that just needs a facelift, or maybe you’re tired of your old dresser, but don’t want to buy a new one. Painting is an easy, budget-friendly way to refresh your furniture and also give it a personal touch. Plus, it’s a fun DIY project that lets you get creative with colors and finishes.

I’ve been rearranging our house the past few months, which seemed like a great way to start the new year. This little guy had been hiding in the guest room for years. It was just a little something to take up space in that room, but I never really loved it (and we don’t have many guests). As I pulled it out into the hallway to take it to the Goodwill, it dawned on me that I could make it better (and keep it to use somewhere else in the house).

What You’ll Need To Paint a Dresser

• Sandpaper (120-220 grit) or a sander with 120-220 grit pads
• Old towels or rags
• Behr Marquee paint with primer
• Paintbrush or small roller for latex paint
• Furniture wax
• Screwdriver (to remove the hardware/knobs)
• Drop cloth (to protect your work area)
• Stir stick (for mixing paint)
• Fresh air

Step 1: Prep, Prep, Prep

The very first step is take off the hardware—drawer pulls, knobs, anything that’s in the way. If you’re planning to replace them, now’s a great time to pick out something fun and have them on stand-by.

Cleaning

Give your dresser a good cleaning before you do anything else. Use a mild soap and water solution or a degreaser if the dresser has been sitting in a garage or collecting dust for a while. Let it dry completely before moving on to the sanding.

Sanding

Lightly sand the dresser with 120-220 grit sandpaper. You can also use a hand sander for this. The goal isn’t to remove the old finish entirely but to roughen up the surface enough so the paint adheres better. Pay extra attention to any glossy or shiny areas. If there are deep scratches or dings, you can fill them with a little bit of wood filler before sanding.

Dusting

After sanding, make sure to wipe away all the dust with a tack cloth or a damp rag. This step is crucial because dust can create an uneven paint finish and no one wants dust permanently stuck in their paint. Trust me, it’ll drive you mad.

Step 2: Get Painting

Choosing the Right Paint

There are tons of great paint options out there, but lately Behr Marquee paint with primer has been my go-to because it provides excellent coverage and durability and I can pick it up locally (quickly and easily). And since it has a built-in primer, you can skip the separate priming step in most cases. It makes painting furniture a breeze.

For this project I used Behr Marquee Black in a flat finish. This is the truest black Behr makes and it looks good in almost any lighting. For help selecting a black paint, read this post—it’s got everything you need to know.

Applying the First Coat

Use a brush or foam roller to apply the first (thin) coat of paint. Work in long, even strokes, following the wood grain for the smoothest finish. If you’re painting the drawers separately, make sure they’re tipped up (flat) to prevent drips.

Dry Time and Recoating

Let the first coat dry for at least 2 hours before applying the second coat (Marquee has a 2 hour re-coat minimum, so wait at least 2 hours between coats/finishes). Lightly sand between coats with fine-grit (220) sandpaper to smooth out any imperfections and minimize brush strokes. Apply a second coat, and if necessary, a third, allowing each coat to dry properly. I find that usually two coats of this paint does the trick.

Step 3: Seal the Deal

Once your paint is fully dry, apply a furniture wax to protect the finish and add a soft, velvety look. Use a clean cloth or wax brush to rub a thin layer of wax onto the surface, working in small sections. Let it dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then buff it out for a smooth finish. This is my favorite way to finish furniture for that chalk paint look.

Alternative Sealer Options

If you need or prefer extra durability, especially for high-use furniture (like a kitchen table for example), consider using a water-based polycrylic topcoat instead of wax. Minwax makes a great one. It provides a strong, clear finish that won’t yellow over time and holds up to water better than wax.

Extra Tips for a Professional Finish:

• If you’re painting a dark dresser a lighter color instead of black, an extra coat may be needed for full coverage. It varies by project.
• Don’t rush the drying process—patience pays off here, my friend. Wait the recommended time.
• If you want a distressed or vintage look, lightly sand the edges with a fine sandpaper (220 grit) after painting and before waxing.

See? That wasn’t so bad was it? Paint makes such a huge difference. In fact, my little ugly dresser has been relocated and now has a prominent space in my entryway with a whole new look.

So, go forth and paint all the furniture in sight, my friend (like I have been—more projects coming soon). With just a little bit of effort, you can transform any tired old piece of furniture into something that you truly love.